• Batik is a method of resist-dyeing. The most common resist used is wax. Other resists which are worthy of experimentation are pastes made from starchy commodities such as cassava, rice and flour. Paraffin wax is brittle and will crack, allowing dye to penetrate through to the fabric. Beeswax is more pliable and has better adhesive qualities but is quite expensive. Either wax can be used, or a mixture of the two. There are also numerous natural and synthetic waxes and resins which can be used as a resist. Microcrystalline wax is particularly resistant to corrosive chemicals whilst having similar qualities to beeswax. 
  Due to the use of wax in Batik, cold water dyes are used. Procion dyes are purchased in powder form and mixed into a paste with water and urea (20 heaped teaspoons urea to 1 pint of hot water, Urea is a dye dissolver and a good wetting agent and allows for more even dyeing.) The reaction occurs with the addition of an alkali in the form of soda (washing crystals). Procion dyes need the presence of soda in order for a chemical reaction with dye, liquid and fibre to take place (fixation.) This reaction is immediate so the soda should only be added prior to dyeing as the dye has a limited life of 3 - 4 hours once mixed. (20 heaped teaspoons soda to 1 pint of hot water.) It is important to allow sufficient time for the cloth to dry naturally as this plays an important role in the fixing process. Excess dye should be rinsed away and the cloth allowed to dry before continuing with the next stage of the Batik.
  Soda solution and urea solution can be stored separately in airtight containers. Dye solution/paste will keep for some weeks in similar conditions. Due to the chemicals involved with dyeing, it is important to clean any dye off the wax surfaces. This greatly reduces the risk of the wax being undermined by the corrosive effects of soda.
• Procion dyes are suitable for dyebaths and direct painting techniques. 
• Procion dyes are suitable for use on cellulose fibres such as cotton and linen. The dyes can also be used successfully on silk with different results due to a reduced absorbtion rate, protein fibres having less affinity with the dyestuff. Man made fibres such as nylon and polyester are not suitable for use with Procion dyes.
• All fabrics should be thoroughly washed prior to dyeing in order to remove any starchy dressing which would prevent dye absorption.
• There are also silk paints which are readily available. Some are fixed by ironing, others by steaming or by use of a separate fixing agent. Experimentation with the different types of paint is advisable.
• Wax can be removed from a finished Batik, first by ironing between sheets of unprinted paper to remove the bulk of the wax. A wax stain will be left which can be removed either by soaking in white spirit which will dissolve the wax residue or by washing in hot water with the addition of soda crystals. All chemicals should be removed from the fabric in order to ensure light/wash fastness of the dye and prevent fibre damage. The fabric can of course be re-waxed in order to stiffen the fabric and/or enhance the depth of colour.

         SAFE WORKSHOP PRACTICE
            Take care with hot wax;

• Use a thermostatically controlled electric wax pot designed for workshop use.
• Do not overload brushes or wax pens with wax, use a little and often.
• Always keep a tissue in the spare hand to catch drops of wax.
• In the event of being burnt with hot wax, hold the burn under cold running water for ten minutes or until the stinging effect wears off.
• Make sure that there is good ventilation when waxing. Also when removing wax by ironing or washing out with hot water.

            And dyes;

• Mix dye powder very carefully as prolonged exposure may be an irritant and may cause asthmatic and allergic reactions in some people.
• Wear rubber gloves when using dye baths and avoid direct contact with skin at all times.